Mortises, problems and other stuff

I’ve got lots going on here at Misadventures. Finishing up soffits and Azek trim on the stone work. Rough plumbing is in the woman cave. New roof goes on next week.

Today I’ll do a quick post about original doors and mortises.

I’m using the original doors in their original locations when possible. Really, there’s only five doors on the first floor that stay where they were 80 years ago, but the original mortise latches and locks were broken and others didn’t work very well. So, to make it more complicated I got new latches and hinges for the doors.

1 new mortise locksThe problem is the new latches won’t fit the original openings. Great! Time to make a jig!

2 mortise jigSo using the handy router bit to base plate edge  blocks,  I made a jig to route the new openings in the doors. Since I have five of these to do it was quicker to make a jig.

3 mortise routerThe jig is aligned to the opening and clamped to the door. The router base follows the frame to cut the new opening.

4 mortise fitAnd the new latch fits into the new recessed opening.

5 strike plate jigOf course, the strike plates didn’t fit either, so another jig is made for the door jamb. The router follows the inside frame and you have just what you need.

1 door finishedThe reconditioned door with new latch, door plates, knobs and hinges – one down, four to go.

2 stone trimWhen it’s not raining I’ll jump outside to finish the Azek frieze trim and soffits. This was the last of the hidden vent soffits around the whole house. No more birds nesting in there!

3 copper lightAnd while I was at it, I added this nifty solid copper light over the back door. This should get a nice patina over time.

6 sill pan leakOne problem that had me stumped was this little leak at the sunroom door. There’s no gutters on the house yet, but no leaks should be happening here.It has a sill pan underneath.

7 sill panAs you can see from this photo in 2012, the sill is protected with a pan and flashing underneath. After taking the brick-mold off outside and my newly installed trim off the inside, I was ready to remove the door and see what could be the problem.

8 sill pan fixBut before I dropped the door, I thought I would see if it was possible that the pan was leaking. These sill pans are made from three pieces that are cemented together, so I took a syringe and filled the pan with water. It leaked. So I ordered a can of Weldon 2007 – a water thin pvc solvent. I used the syringe to add cement at the seam inside the pan and then applied upward pressure with the putty knife between the floor and pan. It took care of the leak.

Wish I would have thought of this before I took off all the trim. Live and learn.



Bungalow Replacement Windows – Installation Details Part 2

So after my refreshing nap – we’re ready to continue…where were we?

Oh – window installation. We need a permit – and we need a plan. Remember, this was at the very start of my misadventure. I knew nothing of permits or where to get one – I just knew we needed one. So off to the Civic Center to the Building Commission. No real problems here. Just tell them what you’re going to do and pay the fee – then tape the blue notice in the front window – done.

Now the plan.

Window-DetailI didn’t know how detailed I needed to be with the inspectors or powers that be. So I drew up my little diagram and sent it off to the structural inspector. He said – fine – whatever. I later found out from a builder that diagrams are deemed an annoyance. Live and learn.

Rough window framingHere is the plan on installing windows in the existing structure – as per my nifty diagram above. I used pressure treated wood (not really needed, by the way) around the existing opening making the sides plumb and the top and bottom level. This will make installation of the new window easy – as the bottom sill will rest on a flat and level surface. I widened each window as much as possible – opting to use the weight pocket gaps to make the windows wider. It added about 4″ in width. Since these were custom windows, each took about a month to get. I didn’t order them until I had the rough-in complete, so Masonite was put in place to cover the holes. Actually I didn’t measure them –  I let the window wholesaler come out and measure – if one didn’t fit – I had a scapegoat.

sill guardI’m jumping from old construction to new – because I don’t have any pictures of the early part of the window install. But you can see the sill guard going into place here. The bottom corners go over the waterproofing, then the middle sections (laying on floor) overlap the corner pieces.

Sill guard installHere’s an installed view. The black polypropylene guard makes a waterproof sill pan under the window. It has a built in slope and channels to allow water to escape to the outside instead of pooling and rotting out the sill. The black sill guard goes up the side of the window about 4″. Here is is covered with the waterproofing wrap.

Window rough waterproofingThe exterior of the window rough in after waterproofing wrap is installed. Really, nobody goes to this extreme – but it shouldn’t leak when I’m done.

window installedHere is a close up detail of the living room window. You can see all of the elements in my little annoying drawing here. These windows don’t open and have no grills because they face directly into the neighbor’s windows. I have stained glass windows that go over these.

Nailing-Finmetal strapThe windows are held in place by three methods. Top is the nailing fin that is fastened to the outside framing – two is the metal straps that are attached to the bottom of the windows. These bridge over the sill guard and mount to the sill wood – eliminating holes in the fancy sill pan we just put in. The third is the screws that attach through the window with shims into the side and top framing members.

living room windowYou can see the straps installed on the living room window.

exterior window flashingHere is how the window flashing goes on after the window is installed. Well – this is incorrect. That piece along the bottom needs to come off – if you seal the bottom there’s no place for the water to go. The left side is on and then the right side goes on – then the top piece goes on last. So, as a recap – window nailed in – side pieces of flashing, then top piece – no flashing on the bottom.

Well, time for a Doctor’s appointment.

See you soon.