OK, Now I’m in the Mudroom

How about this? Two posts in one day? Well,this one will get me updated to real time – as in this morning. I was happily painting cabinet doors at 3:30am today, and got most of the Mudroom projects completed – so why not get this post out of the way.

One item added was a rail and coat hooks above the shoe storage bench.

We left the mudroom like this for the past few years. Looks like we need to make some cabinet doors.

First things first. We have to clean this place up! It’s a little tricky, so I decided to make another half-a**ed scaffold. No issue with falling off and being wheelchair bound this time. It was the only way to get to the tops of the cabinets and window without risking breaking the granite counters.

I used a small scale white subway tile for the back splash.

The left side has an electrical feed for a receptacle. This whole circuit is on a gfci line as required by code.

I used a light silver grout to match the lighter tones of the granite.

I cut an angled block to mount the 4 socket receptacle – the angle makes it easy to plug in appliances or whatever. I didn’t like those exposed screws used to mount the power strip.

So I made a couple of covers that fit over the mounting tabs to make it look more built in.

Now we get out the stile and rail router bits to make the cabinet doors.

The first fitting of the doors. I made them inset, like the rest of the cabinets I’ve made. All of the trim around the tile and windows was fabricated and finished. The cabinet doors are 40″ tall, so they looked a little bland.

So I took some inspiration from the original cabinet doors that flank the living room fireplace. I wanted to avoid glass doors in the mudroom, as I didn’t want to see boxes of laundry detergent every time I walked in the room.

So I made a mock up of the same design to see if it would work as an overlay. OK

While I was at it I made a pair of plain shaker doors for the sink base cabinet.

So I painted the doors and got them back on their hinges by 8:00am this morning.

I need some doorknobs. Hang in there – more to come. But not today.

 

Siding an Old House #3 Putting it on the wall

The old Misadventures project is moving along – as fast as an old man that walks like a penguin can go. The siding was supposed to be done last Fall, but that didn’t happen. I’m determined to finish it this year before the snow shows up – fingers crossed.

1 corner trimFirst up – the corner trim. There’s only one inside corner on the house where siding meets siding – the others are stone to siding. I’ve made a corner trim piece from 5/4 (1″ thick) Azek stock. I put it together with PVC glue and exterior trim head screws.

2 corner trim installThe trim piece was screwed in the corner with cortex screws on top of the rain screen.

3 stone trim 1One problem that having no plan is that mistakes happen. The problem here is that the 5/4 trim stock was put in place next to the stone when it was installed. This made it too thin to cover the edge of the siding because of the thickness of the rain screen. The solution was to add another piece of stock to build up the width.

4 stone trim 2The same trim piece was added to the stone junctures with siding.

5 felt paperThe 30 pound asphalt felt is continued around the house over the old house wrap.

6 rain screenThe GreenGuard rain screen is attached with plastic cap nails. It is butted up against the black drainage mat to allow moisture to drain into the weeps embedded in the stone.

7 stone beltingI had enough limestone left over so that I could cover the old brick foundation.

8 siding startThe start of siding – finally. I’m using HardiePlank lap siding. This is a cement-based product. I’m using the smooth finish – not the wood-grain texture, as this is what would have been originally used. I’m using a 6″ reveal, so the total height of each piece is 7 1/4″. They come is 12′ lengths.

9 siding kickerYou are required to use a 1 1/4″ spacer (kicker) on the bottom of the 1st course, to keep the angle of the siding the same. I used a 5/16″ thick piece of PVC trim, you can use a strip of the siding for this spacer, but I though the PVC would be waterproof. .

10 siding notchesThe Hardie siding was notched with a diamond blade in an angle grinder. All cut edges are sealed with the same paint. The color is BM White Heron Low Luster. More on painting later.

11 water table spacersThe good thing is that the water table is level and makes putting on the first course easy. The second course required spacer blocks that kept the reveal at 6″. The stud locations were marked on the rain screen and the siding nailed into the studs. The siding is attached with stainless steel 2″ ring shank siding nails. I’m using a Bostitch Coil Siding Nailer.

12 joint flashingAt each siding joint a flashing is required. I used the recommended coated aluminum coil stock behind each joint. You must use a coated aluminum material, as raw aluminum will react with the cement in the siding.

So not too exciting, but we are making progress…