The Pointy Closet #2

The second chapter of the pointy closet. We have the new 3′ octagonal window in place, so now we can work on widening the room. First we open up the walls and see what we’ve got to work with. This side of the closet is open to the outside. It was insulated but you can see daylight peeking through – we’ll add 18″ on this side.

The other side now opens into the new sun room addition. I’ve moved the wall out 18″ on this side as well and decked the floor.

In my last post I showed you this area under the eaves.

Sparing you the journey of weeks of work, this is the old crawl space area with the brick chimney now. Everything is repaired and an insulated wall has been added. Unfaced fiberglass in the roof rafters are held in place with webbing. Blown in insulation is added behind the knee wall as well.

I’ve enlarged the floor to 8′ 6″ wide and insulated the short walls with fiberglass and foil foamboard insulation.

But the demo demon was just too strong and out comes the chopped off ceiling and side walls. Now I can add some more insulation and some character too.

Removing the drywall allowed me to move the collar ties up to the top. I could do this safely because the new sunroom structure supports this closet wall. Rafters were sistered on the side of the existing roof structure to level the wall surfaces.

The under eave storage areas get a layer of foil faced foam insulation. I am figuring out the door opening areas that will access the storage room. Lots of angles and figuring to do.

Once the walls are insulated, the walls get 5/8″ firecode drywall over the foam board. The ‘wings’ on the side walls will be used to attach closet rods.

A coat of drywall compound and tape is used to seal the drywall. The front wall gets unfaced fiberglass. All electrical is reworked and in place.

A layer of foil faced foam board is added and tape sealed to reduce air infiltration on the front wall.

Drywall is added to the front wall.

Extra drywall gymnastics are used to get the odd angles covered outside the closet entrance.

The closet entrance is taped and surfaced. Still a lot to do out here.

The under eave areas are drywalled and finished. Wiring and ventilation is also in place.

And the other side has a finished out storage area as well.

A pair of 6 panel wood doors are cut to fit the new eave openings.

One day I hope to find some use for the bottom door parts.

The door hinges are set to route the door as well as the casing.

The hinge jig makes a perfect mortise for the hinge.

The hinges are fitted to the casing and the door.

The door casing is installed and fitted.

Each door swings in to the tall wall.

The other side is framed as well for the door. Plywood flooring is added over the existing subfloor. This will have a finished oak floor over the top.

Both doors are installed for both under eave storage areas.

Working on the design of the closet layout. The pendant lights will need mounting blocks and some type of shelving will be used over the closet rod wings.

The closet entrance gets drywalled as well.

The window jamb pieces are cut to size.

The octagonal window jamb is placed in a jig that helps hold the pieces in place while they are glued and nailed.

I built two of these jambs, as the sunroom will also have an identical window.

The casing is also fabricated.

So we are on our way to getting the pointy closet ‘pointy’ again. Stick around somethings bound to change.

 

 

Advertisements

Master Bath Reno #10 time to move to another floor

So we’re stuck with a miss-cut door.Three out of four’s not bad – really?  So after a night of thinking about the problem I came up with a fairly simple fix.

1 door markI’ll need to cut this much off the top of the door – close to 1/2″. I’ll take the hinge plates mounted to the cabinet and move them up the same amount that I cut off the door.

2 glued on bottomThen we’ll take the cut piece from the top and glue and nail to the bottom. Then use a solvent based wood filler for the first coat.

3 vanity drywallWhile that’s setting up, we’ll add some drywall in the vanity space between the cabinets.

4 door sandedThen back to sand the the door joint.

5 door primedSome surface filler is applied and then the first primer coat goes on. Now I’m glad my wife wanted painted doors. It will get several more applications until the seam disappears.

6 vanity drywall cut outAnd while that’s getting finished we’ll add the electrical boxes for the sconces and cut the hole for the vanity cabinet. I’m getting to a stand still here – better go downstairs and start on another project.

7 fireplace cabinetsAnd this looks like a good candidate – the cabinets next to the fireplace.

Time to clear out another room and get to work… stick around we’ll finish something sooner or later.