OK, Kitchen – I Need A Kitchen. Suggestions?

Now that the floors are in and finished with 2 coats of clear. We need to get on with designing a kitchen for the space. I have a pretty good idea in my mind’s eye. But what looks good upstairs might not work so well in reality. So I’ll lay out my plans and you can all chime in on what, when, how. If you’re a cook, all the better – I need your insight. I’m not the best of cooks, but I do make one mean scratch made Cream Puff. I’ll make you some if I ever get this place done. So let’s get on with it, shall we?

Here’s the space as it sits today. The water supply and drains are in place for the island. The bucket is full of electric for the dishwasher, garbage disposal and receptacles as well as controls for the ceiling speakers.

Now most of you probably draw out your designs or use sketchup or some other fancy visualization 3-D whoop whoop software. But down here in southern Indiana we use a little more primitive technology. OK, work with me now – the door is the refrigerator. Those half sawn doors with the cardboard flap – that’s the stove. Squint real hard – can you see the shiny new kitchen?

OK, maybe not – here’s a reverse angle. The 2 legged table is cabinets with drawers. The white slab of cardboard above is a cabinet for a toaster oven and microwave. An island runs down the middle.

I’m sure by now you can almost smell the bacon frying. The shelf on the left will be lowered a little – to hold cooking oils and salt and pepper stuff I suppose. The right hand shelf  is for plates and bowls so they’re handy when I make my fried baloney sandwiches. A prep sink will be to the right of the stove so I can wash off my food when it falls on the floor.

The range hood has a 8″ duct that goes straight up through the roof. I’m working on adding an automatic make up air system to replace the air in the building when this thing is turned on high. Didn’t think about it until now. Most building codes require a make up air system if the range hood is rated over 400 CFM – I have a KOBE hood that’s rated at 840CFM on high.

And the space between the sunroom and living room is a coffee / wine bar. Humm.. 3 sinks in one room – maybe I should have thought this through a little more. But the plumbing is there and the sinks and faucets are bought. This will have a small sink with a wine refrigerator below on the right. Above are a couple of open glass shelves and the rest is cabinets for pantry items. The thing is – I don’t drink wine or coffee. Maybe I better get a beverage center so I can chill my Diet Coke.

The Drawings

So after I built the mock up I did make some drawings. Look professional? Just a little bit? OK, well you’re right they’re not. I used my trusty Microsoft Publisher from Office 2000 to make the scaled drawings. I guess you’d call that ‘Old School’?

I plan on making the island on two levels. The sink side is 36″ and the lower side is 30″. That’s a standard table height. My wife is only 5’2″ and I thought the lower height would make it easier if she ever decided to cook something. The lower level can also be used as a table with regular height dining chairs if we needed more table space. I thought about exdending the end of the counter so I could get a couple of stools under for a place to eat.

The layout is made so you don’t have to walk through the working spaces to get to other rooms in the house. The back mudroom entrance allows you to go to the sunroom and living room by walking straight ahead, or going to the two offices, bathroom and upstairs by turning left.

So that’s my plan. I’d appreciate all of you creative people’s ideas. Bonus points if you know how to cook.

 

 

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Hardwood floors going in

As I noted in my last post, the good stuff is going in. After 8 years of sawdust and open walls, things will start to come together. The good thing is I know that all of the systems and mechanics are brand new and hopefully will last another 80+ years.

We left off here. The 2 1/2″ white oak floors are being installed. I contracted this project out – mainly due to time. I’m working on the upstairs to try and finish this year. Wide white oak floors go up there, and I have a lot to do. Besides, I know these will be done on a level better than I could do.

Stained and with 2 coats of clear, it’s time for me to get my baseboard cap on and put in some trim.

This is the kitchen area to be. The bucket holds all of the electric and controls for the in ceiling speakers. A central island will be 14′ long on two levels. The  space is 40′ long from the back door to the sunroom wall.

I’ve got to finish the fireplace install and a final coat of paint on the fireplace – and baseboard trim and we’re almost finished in this room.

I put porcelain tile down at the two entrances next to the wood floors. I wanted to keep water off of the floors to make the finish last a little longer.

So here is a picture of my sock feet this morning, walking on my newly finished floors. So much more to do, but we’re headed in the right direction.

Stick around, something’s bound to happen.

August Notes – what’s been happening

Greetings my fellow renovators and particular handy people. Well, another month has past and it’s time for an update. The posts will come more frequently and not as long after this one because fancy stuff will start to happen. Or I hope so.

We’ll start in the small 2nd floor master bedroom. It’s not a huge room, and that’s fine by me. I wanted a smaller cozier place to lay my weary head. But no time for rest now, we’ve got to get busy.  The textured ceiling is finally removed. This was a messy, no fun procedure.  I’ve added a wood banding at the ceiling wall junction and painted the walls BM Sterling gray.The ceiling was difficult because most of the intersecting joints were cracked. I removed the paper tape in all of the corners and added a composite flexible corner tape called StraitFlex    I added another wood banding to create a beam appearance. I also added some upright pieces to add a little detail. The wood beam on the back wall is a support beam for the steel I beam that is hiding behind my new wood banding. We’ll make pilaster covers for those.After a lot of fiddling and drywall mud, I finally have the ceiling and corners where I want them. So on goes a couple coats of ceiling white. At this point I wasn’t feeling the gray wall intersection with the angled ceiling. Something about it said  “not finished’. Adding trim would be a nightmare with all of the angles and layout of the room. So while we ponder that great question, we might as well put some finish on the wood window casing. Most of the other window trim in the house is made with poplar for solid paint. This room will have a little more rustic feel, so knotty pine was used. Here I’m adding a wash coat. Once I put on the paint, I give it a light sand and then a couple coats of Varathane water based clear coating. The waterbase coating won’t yellow over time like polyurethanes will. And when I finished that I decided to paint the walls the same color as the ceiling. So that solved the weird angle paint dilemma. This is an all white room, with a white floor as well. We used white so much because I have a lot of art and that will add some color to our spaces. The pocket doors are ready to be painted and installed. I skip over much of this door painting exercise, but it took a very long time to paint and finish the two pocket doors for the bathroom and bedroom, and I still have another one to paint for the closet.

The doors have textured glass for privacy, yet it allows light through to brighten the space. All of the glass doors are like this.

Now we hop down to the 1st floor and get everything out for the new oak floors. It’s not been this clean since 2009. I’m still working on the direct vent fireplace, we’ll get that sorted out before winter.

It’s kinda nice to be able to walk in through the house without tripping over something.

Here’s one pile of white oak for the 1st floor.

And here’s the other pile that’s needed to finish the 1st floor. This is 2 1/4″ 3/4″ white oak.

As much as I would have liked to lay these floors, I contracted it out to a very skilled installer. Here is the start looking from the living room into the kitchen area. He’ll be here a couple of weeks on the first floor, and again for the second floor. It would take me months to do this.

Back upstairs we find a problem. The pocket door was nice and flush to the door casing when closed, but when pushed back into the pocket, the bottom was back about 1″. Bad news. That meant the track inside the pocket was not level. The front was, but not the back. So we cut some holes in our new drywall and make some adjustments. The hole allowed me to lower the back of the track to make everything level. So I’ve paid for my mistake.

So we make a new drywall patch and screw it in place. We tape and mud and feather it out. Move along, nothing to see here. And the door is flush to the casings when open and closed. Meanwhile, while my door drama is unfolding on the second floor, the hard wood guys are busy at work laying the floors in the sunroom.

You might recall in my last post this photo of the access door that is in the master bedroom. The 2nd floor HVAC unit is behind this area. I wasn’t feeling this ill fitting door, so I had some time to think of a solution.

So the solution was to make a panel on the opposite wall to mirror the new door I’ll make for the opening. Here I’ve applied the wood directly to the drywall. The panel was meant to fit next to the post cover I made to hide the support beam.

On the door side, I made a new door and a pilaster cover to match the other side. There is no support beam here, so it’s just for show to match. I used euro hinges that are removable, so if major service is needed the door can be removed all together in seconds. I painted the door the same paint color as the wall. I didn’t add any door hardware, as It’s easy to open. The gap at the bottom will disappear when the new floor goes in.  And the dummy door is painted as well so everything matches.

So after 8 years this month, things are finally going back together. I’ve got to get the appliances ordered so I can make a final design of the kitchen. But let’s not get ahead of ourselves.

Hang in there – something’s bound to happen.

 

July Updates – a variety of the mundane

Greetings fellow renovators. It’s been a while since I’ve posted any in depth, detailed shenanigans here at the MisAdventures project. And this one will be full of photos and not a lot of dramatic before and afters – more of the tedious type – but we’re getting there.

I did start a FaceBook page, just to organize the 1000’s of photos of the renovation in chronological order. If you want to follow along on my nearly daily posts you can click on it in the sidebar on the home page or you can click here.

But back to the tedious – as in this photo for instance. I doubt that it’s going to be pinned to many Pinterest boards. This is the casing for the big opening from the kitchen into the living room. I like to make the ‘U’ shaped piece by gluing it together and using pocket hole screws before I put it on the wall. And in this case it’s a ‘U’ that is 8′ tall and 6′ wide. I clamped a crosspiece across the bottom so I could move it by myself without breaking the glue joints.

Once fastened in place, it gets another piece of back banding trim and then painted –  it looks better. But maybe it’s because the photo is a little out of focus.

Going up to the 2nd floor master bedroom, I have this slanted door that allows access to the HVAC unit in the finished space behind. Fine, except the door is crappy, and that will never do. I’ll think of something that doesn’t look so much like a – well – like a door would be better. What, I have no idea yet.

But. we’ll  tear it out and figure it out later. But I will patch the floor before we put another 1/2″ plywood floor on top. This was cut out to add a recessed light in the ceiling below.

Of course, that requires moving these two antique French balcony panels for the countless time. I bought them several years ago at a Philadelphia auction house after a several year search for just the right size. They are cast and wrought iron and heavy! But then I like heavy things.

I bought these by telephone and had them shipped. I think I got the pair for 150.00 – and it cost 165.00 to ship. We’ll find out in a week or so if they will work as intended.

The floor is patched and It’s time to add some plywood. The areas under the eaves was an unconditioned space, but now all areas are insulated and conditioned.

The 1/2″ layer of plywood goes over the entire floor to strengthen the areas that were cut out to add ductwork and electrical.  Each panel is glued in place with PL glue and screwed every 6″. 4″ on the perimeter.

The plywood goes throughout the bedroom and the pointy closet, so it will be a seamless transition when the new flooring is installed.

I just figured out that I have more wood on the outside of the walls than I do on the inside. Funny how that works.

Now we get to the part of finishing off the floor/stair juncture. If you recall, I made a new staircase to create a modern, safe stair instead of the steep narrow one that was original to the house. This is the moment of truth to see if my calculations were correct in setting the height of the staircase.

And we are a winner! The plywood piece is cut and fastened in place. Life is good.

The last piece of 1/2″ plywood is down. I’ll have to start figuring out what I want to do with those antique balcony panels and build the newel posts. The flooring guy will be here in a week or so to install the white oak floor. And I mean white, as in a white finish on a white oak floor. We’ll see how that turns out.

At this time we also get to the art project I have posted about before. The worrisome sign that I had made in Seattle. The sign-maker was a nice guy and actually made the wood carving twice. He had a problem with the computer aided carving machine. It seems it wanted to make these little grooves down the length of the sign.  Which is fine if you want grooves – I did not.

So I told him to send it anyway to see if I could carve and sand out the lines. I could and did, but it took about 60 hours and my fingers still hurt.

The sign goes above the opening from the kitchen into the new sunroom. Here I’m just trying to figure out how to trim this into place. ‘Omnia Vincit Amor”  ‘Love conquers all” it’s Latin from the poet Virgil. The next line in his prose is “Let us too yield to love” I kinda like that old Virgil guy. The ‘1935’ is the year the original house was built.

To finish, I wanted it to have the same whitewashed look as the ceiling in the sunroom.So I thinned down some white latex paint and brushed on a coat.

Of course waterbased paints raise the grain of the wood, so it’s back to more sanding – like 10 hours worth.

Once that’s finished a bronze metallic paint is applied to each letter and number using my finger. Using your finger allows the paint to be irregular and will help when the antiquing process begins.

Another overglaze wash is added and a couple of light sandings happen.Dark restoration wax is then applied and buffed off a couple of times. Another layer of white glaze is added to the letters and buffed off. Are you tired yet? Trim is still being mocked up to see what will work. Also note, the leaves in the sign were designed to match the chandeliers. I know, I know –  I’m nuts.

The trim details are worked out and the pilaster design was added. But after I had the trim on the column up, painted and finished, I just wasn’t feeling it. The vertical lines join the bottom of the frame of the sign and looks too abrupt to me. I always figure these things out too late.

So with my trusty oscillating saw, I carefully cut the offending trim pieces out and added another horizontal piece at the top of the pilaster. Now I feel better – and I hope you do too, as you’ve come to the end of this post.

Here’s hoping for a great August!

 

 

 

 

Mudroom Details – it’s the little things

Greetings and salutations my fellow renovators. Sorry for the late posting, it’s just that the things I’m working on are not so photogenic. I did get around to finishing up most of the mudroom.

These are the three steps that go from the mudroom into the kitchen. You can see the old brick foundation and original floor framing members. I have a toe kick installed for a HVAC vent.

Adding the risers and cut out the vent opening. This is a 2 1/2″ X 14″ toe kick vent.

The door to the right goes to the woman cave. The textured glass lets more light in the stairwell. It matches all the other glass doors.Up the steps to the kitchen you see that pesky shoe storage bench and coat hooks.

I am obsessed with little details. I like everything to be precise and finished. Here I milled small trim pieces to finish off the tile edges. The thin strip under the window ledge is made from of PVC, to make sure there’s no water damage from a wet counter top.

Instead of getting an expensive plugmold power strip. I cut a piece of wood at an angle and used this power strip. At 17.00 it’s a lot cheaper.

The Leland Single Handle faucet works well.  The small soap pump and the electronic garbage disposal switch has an auto turn off after 20 seconds.

I used very simple polished chrome knobs on all of the cabinets. These were 2.80 at Menards.

So there you have it – a nearly finished mud room. Sure I started building it in 2010, but hey, a guy has to take his time.

I promise better posts in the future. We’re just getting started.

 

Looking Up – the Kitchen Ceiling

I was perusing my favorite blogs the other day and was reading about my friend Dan’s project over at With The Barretts showing his great (and fast) renovation. In this post he includes a couple of photos of his kitchen ceiling – as well as his nearly completed Kitchen – and his new floors and everything else they’ve got done in the same amount of time it has taken me to renovate one room. Oh, well – what can I say.

But I do Have a Kitchen Ceiling

1-feet-upYou saw my stripped – to – the – walls kitchen over my lucky shoes in a previous post. And my wife likes to keep these plants alive during the winter by having me put them in the kitchen as well. More crap to fall over.

2-ceiling-paintedAnd I too have new floors – they’re just still in large piles. That makes maneuvering to paint the ceiling and install the lights just a little more challenging. But I was able to prime and paint the new dry-walled ceilings without falling off the ladder again. That’s the same ladder that put me in a wheelchair for half of 2013. Bad ladder.

2-ceiling-speakerI added a couple of stereo speakers in the ceiling as well for the TV or ambient music.

4-schoolhouse-lightsNow I know most kitchens have pendant lights that hang down – usually over the island or counters. I have pendant lights too – they’re just really short.

5-ceiling-lights-onand they don’t hang over anything. I placed school house lights that follow the path of the walkway. There’s 5 of them that are centered between the wall and the center island and spaced over the 27′ long kitchen. You could see that if I was like Dan and had my kitchen island in place – which I do not. Visualize, people.

6-ceiling-lightsBeing the obsessive, layer – the – light kinda guy, I have 22 lights in the Kitchen. The ones on the left are general lighting LEDs. The center group are pin spots that will shine directly on the natural quartzite tops.The island is 14′ long, so I have 7 lights for this section. And finally the schoolhouse lights.

Is it bright, you say? Well – yes.

But at my age you need lighting like a surgical theater to keep knife mishaps to a minimum.

There’s always dimmers. Grab your sunglasses and stick around. I might have another ‘bright’ idea.

Building a Bath Vanity out of scrap wood

Greetings fellow renovators and handy people! Warning! Long post.

As I mentioned in my last post, we’ll be building a bathroom vanity from scrap wood for the Woman Cave bathroom. Now scrap wood might be a misleading title, as I have a lot of nice scrap wood lying around due to an 8 year whole house remodel.

1-vanity-designFirst things first. A little inspiration. I checked out all kinds of vanities online and picked a few images I thought had some of the features I wanted. Then grab a scrap piece of paper and start doodling and ciphering. Next we make the outer frame.

2-front-face-frameAnd here’s what we get. I made a pair of inset doors with a rail and stile router set and plan on having 4 drawers on the side. The face frame is assembled with Kreg screws.

3-vanity-mock-upNow we prance down to the basement and see what it will look like. You can see my invisible wife reviewing the vanity. (Not really – it’s just her slippers) The design has one sink -offset with ample space to the right of the sink for girly stuff.

4-cabinet-interiorWith the design finalized it’s time to dig out some 3/4″ UV coated plywood. It’s really a lot heavier than needed, but it’s what I had on hand. This will form the sides and bottom of the compartment accessed by the doors under the sink.

5-basic-vanity-structureThis ‘U’ was installed with a side panel made from 1/2″ plywood.

6-vanity-with-doorsThe doors were assembled and installed with self closing inset hinges. I’m not certain why I make everything with inset doors – overlay doors are much easier to make. Maybe that’s why…

7-drawer-detailThe drawer face frames were made from scrap poplar and fastened with glue and a single Kreg screw. The back will be routed to insert 1/2″ plywood.

8-drawer-frontsEach inset drawer face was made slightly larger than the cabinet to allow trimming to fit. The sides of the vanity that are against the wall have plywood mounting strips to screw in the wall studs.

9-building-drawer-boxesI used 1/2″ poplar for the drawer sides and used a dado blade on the table saw to make all the cuts. The corners of the box used a dado and tenon joint which is stronger than a traditional dovetail joint – although not near as pretty. I used 1/2″ plywood drawer bottoms – way more than needed, but that’s all I had laying around.

10-back-notchI used Blum Tandem under-mount drawer slides which requires a notch and hole to be placed at the back of the drawer box. I ran the boxes through the table saw and broke out the notch, then cleaned up the cut with a razor knife.

11-drawer-locksThese are the locking mechanisms on the bottom of the drawer. The slides fit on the drawer (see notches at back) and simply push in to lock the drawer in place. To remove the drawer, you squeeze them to unlock and remove the drawer.

12-drawer-lock-closeupSince I’m using inset drawers I opted for the adjustable locks which allow you to move the drawer box inside the frame to get the right reveal around the face frame. You can see the dado and tenon box joint here.

13-vanity-paintedFor finishing, I used 4 coats of water-based polyurethane clear on the drawer boxes. The vanity was painted with BM Sterling and then coated with 4 coats of the same water-base polyurethane. The finish was then wet sanded with 400 grit sandpaper and polished with an 800 grit buffing pad. It’s smooth.

14-vanity-top-templateI’ve got the vanity in place and making a template for the quartz top. The sink is centered over the doors and allows counter space to the right. I used square chrome knobs for easy opening.

15-sconce-relocationOf course, there’s always a problem. I placed this sconce too far to the left. Oops.

16-electrical-boxSo we’ll remove the box on the left and get an old work box for the proper location. The only problem is that there is spray foam that buried the wires. Not as easy as I thought it would be.

17-foam-insulationSo we’ll make a bigger hole. Dig the sconce wire out and patch it all up. Move along – nothing to see here.

18-sink-faucetWhile I was wrestling with the sconces, the counter guys made a quick job with the top and got the Porcher Marquee sink in place.  I bought the sink a couple of years ago and it’s no longer being manufactured. The faucet is a Moen Eva in chrome.

19-vanity-installI plumbed it up over the weekend and all is fine. I have a few more items to add in here (like a tilt mirror) and we’ll call this one done. The medicine cabinet on the right wall might look a little strange. I put it there because I couldn’t recess one behind the sink due to the spray foam.

Sorry for the long post -if you’re still with me. I just wanted to get this one out of the way.

Stick around – it might get interesting.