Siding an old house #6 some details

The weather remains good for outside work – so I’m determined to finally get the siding  done. It’s taken six years to get this far, but by golly we’re gonna finish it before the first snowflake falls.

1 sunroom side 1I’ve got the light up over the door – a couple of problems here – One – it’s too big, so we’ll relocate this to the garage when I reside that. Two – I placed the block too high and the arm hit the fascia. Here I’ve already cut out the old block and electric box, lowered it down 6″ and made a new finish block.

2 doorbell blockThe doorbell block is temporarily in place. I used cat5e wiring almost everywhere – just in case we want to add some video door bell or other tech doodad.

3 sunroom side 2The second side of the sunroom is just like the rest – you put one piece up at a time.

4 sunroom side 2 finishedOnce each wall is finished I caulk all the seams and hand brush two coats of paint. The first coat of paint was sprayed before the pieces were installed. The hand brushing really makes a richer finish – well, in my opinion it does and of course it’s a lot more work.

5 sunroom Villa sideThe front of the sunroom is pretty easy – mainly because it’s almost all windows. The corner posts and water table trim add a lot of dimension to the siding.

6 frontThe BM White Heron color works well with the natural limestone. It’s a slight warm white that keeps it from being too bright.

7 trim blockWhen I have a long run of trim that can’t be finished with one piece, I like to add a detail to make the trim sections look more finished. Because the AZEK soffit trim is only 18′ long and I needed 22′ – I used a trim block centered between the windows to make the seam look intentional.

8 figuringFor some reason I always used a carpenter’s pencil. For these more precise trim measurements get yourself a good mechanical pencil. Live and learn.

9 sunroom side 4Finishing up the sunroom – now only 2 more walls to go.

11 gable blockAZEK is a really nice material, but it’s prone to movement from thermal expansion. It can move 1/4″ depending on the temperature. I placed thin AZEK caps over the main gable joints to hide the seam. The bottoms of the gable trim are glued and fastened, so any movement happens behind this cap.

10 flower appliqueI found some small urethane flower appliques.

12 gable block with flowerTo add a little detail to the gables. For 5.00 each they add some inexpensive charm.


More to come – stick around.


Siding an old house #5 Lights and trim

Progress! It is a steady march around the house, siding one wall at a time. Things are moving, mainly because the weather has cooperated with little rain for the past month.

1 patio sidingThe patio side is complete. AZEK trim was used along the soffit and removable trim pieces against the roofing.

2 light blockThe light blocks that I previously posted about have been wired and the mounting hubs bolted to the electrical boxes with stainless steel bolts. Copper flashing keeps everything dry.

3 patio lights 1I used these barn lights with 40″+ arms made by Hi-light in California.

4 patio lights 2I centered the lights over the three windows below.

5 patio lights nightA light test to see what 20w (100w replacement)  LED bulbs would do – it’s a pretty even light over the patio. The perimeter lights on the stone and corners  are 6w LED down lights.

6 base cap partsAll the trim is AZEK. Here I’ve fabricated some corner base caps and glued the corners with PVC glue held together with painters tape.

7 base cap gluedI got a little carried away and glued all the pieces together.

8 base cap repairThen I realized that I couldn’t get the trim pieces on the columns if all sides are glued. Fortunately I figured this out before the glue set completely.

9 base cap installedThe trim pieces create a base for the AZEK corner boards that are mounted above the water table trim at each corner of the building with siding.

10 siding templateSince I have several corners that have to have the siding fit precisely, I’ve made a Masonite template to trace onto the siding. It’s cut with the angle grinder with a diamond blade.

11 siding cap detailAs usual I have all cuts to fit within a 16th of an inch. This is before caulking.

12 siding sunroom startAnd on we go on to wall #3. The great thing about using Hardie siding is that it looks like the original wood.

Hang around – we’ll go inside sometime.

Siding an Old House #3 Putting it on the wall

The old Misadventures project is moving along – as fast as an old man that walks like a penguin can go. The siding was supposed to be done last Fall, but that didn’t happen. I’m determined to finish it this year before the snow shows up – fingers crossed.

1 corner trimFirst up – the corner trim. There’s only one inside corner on the house where siding meets siding – the others are stone to siding. I’ve made a corner trim piece from 5/4 (1″ thick) Azek stock. I put it together with PVC glue and exterior trim head screws.

2 corner trim installThe trim piece was screwed in the corner with cortex screws on top of the rain screen.

3 stone trim 1One problem that having no plan is that mistakes happen. The problem here is that the 5/4 trim stock was put in place next to the stone when it was installed. This made it too thin to cover the edge of the siding because of the thickness of the rain screen. The solution was to add another piece of stock to build up the width.

4 stone trim 2The same trim piece was added to the stone junctures with siding.

5 felt paperThe 30 pound asphalt felt is continued around the house over the old house wrap.

6 rain screenThe GreenGuard rain screen is attached with plastic cap nails. It is butted up against the black drainage mat to allow moisture to drain into the weeps embedded in the stone.

7 stone beltingI had enough limestone left over so that I could cover the old brick foundation.

8 siding startThe start of siding – finally. I’m using HardiePlank lap siding. This is a cement-based product. I’m using the smooth finish – not the wood-grain texture, as this is what would have been originally used. I’m using a 6″ reveal, so the total height of each piece is 7 1/4″. They come is 12′ lengths.

9 siding kickerYou are required to use a 1 1/4″ spacer (kicker) on the bottom of the 1st course, to keep the angle of the siding the same. I used a 5/16″ thick piece of PVC trim, you can use a strip of the siding for this spacer, but I though the PVC would be waterproof. .

10 siding notchesThe Hardie siding was notched with a diamond blade in an angle grinder. All cut edges are sealed with the same paint. The color is BM White Heron Low Luster. More on painting later.

11 water table spacersThe good thing is that the water table is level and makes putting on the first course easy. The second course required spacer blocks that kept the reveal at 6″. The stud locations were marked on the rain screen and the siding nailed into the studs. The siding is attached with stainless steel 2″ ring shank siding nails. I’m using a Bostitch Coil Siding Nailer.

12 joint flashingAt each siding joint a flashing is required. I used the recommended coated aluminum coil stock behind each joint. You must use a coated aluminum material, as raw aluminum will react with the cement in the siding.

So not too exciting, but we are making progress…