Using Motorcycle Parts in the Bathroom

OK, the internet is generally a good thing – search is a good thing – sometimes.

I’ll explain later

1 wall painted

We left off here with the wall painted and the sconce electric now finished by adding a mud ring to bring the wall boxes out to the wall surface.

2 toilet flange

Now it’s toilet time. I plumbed the floor closet flange with a stainless steel doodad – use this type if you can instead of the all PVC or stamped steel versions.

4 toto toilet

Here’s the toilet – it’s a Toto Soirée one piece toilet.I chose this because my wife wanted a one piece unit – and because I made the paneled wall go to the back of the toilet, it reduced the drain center to 11″. A standard toilet needs 12″ from the center of the drain flange to the finished wall – I only had 11″. Oops, another design faux pas.

3 toto toilet rough

 Toto to the rescue. This toilet uses a doodad that lets you adjust the distance the toilet sits next to the wall. The one that comes with the toilet is for a standard 12″ – but you can buy (for another 65.00) one that makes a 10″ or 14″ rough. So here I’m installing the 10″ rough. I’ve also installed the supply valve and stainless hose.

5 Bristro wall sconce

Then we get up off the floor to install the sconces. These are Restoration Hardware Bistro Sconces. I like these because the arms are adjustable.

6 sconces and toilet installed

Here the sconces, marble window sill, toilet and water supplies for the tub are in.

7 removable tile

I had a tile panel made that is removable for access to the plumbing without having to demo the tile to get access. The water supplies screw into the plumbing below the floor. The wall baseboard is also removable to get the tile panel out. Now we need to plumb the bathtub drain.

10 drain instal

The PVC pipe goes through the floor into the drain trap. The threaded compression fitting had to be close to the floor so the trim ring would sit flat on the floor.

9 marble sill

The window sill is marble and had to be installed before the water supplies. I made a wood template to take to the stone guys and then I installed the sill with silicone. The pipes holding the faucet were pretty stable, but I wanted to make it more secure with some sort of bracket to fasten it to the wall.

That’s where the internet and motorcycle parts come in.

I spent several hours searching for something that might work. Searches for “Pipe Hangers, pipe brackets, tube and/or rod holders and every conceivable search word combination came up with nothing. Nothing in plumbing worked, nothing in electrical, drapery, or closets worked either. So next was marine, auto and then finally motorcycle.

And these popped up.

11 handle bar risers

The criteria was as follows: Chrome and shiny? Check / Split so that they  can be installed without disassembling the water supplies? Check / Fit a 1″ OD pipe? Check / Can be attached to the wall? Check. What the heck are they? Handlebar risers for a Harley Davidson. Sure, that will work.

12 recessed bolts

So we make a poplar bracket and recess the back for the bolts.

13 painted bracket

We paint and finish the bracket to match the wall. Then install the risers.

14 bracket instal

We attached the bracket to the wall. The tub will hide most of this stuff, but I still wanted them to look pretty.

15 bracket closeup

A little hole filling and touch up and these pipes are staying put. So we’re starting to get to the bling – hang in there.


Master Bath Reno #3

You may get a couple of rapid-fire posts as I have a little time between the exterior renovations – sort of a min-vacation for me. So I spend it writing this blog. I’m trying to get caught up on the blog with all the projects – but the truth is, I’m all over the place every day. I’ll work upstairs, then sprint outside to work on the exterior, then down to the basement to do a couple of chores in the new ‘Woman Cave’ something you haven’t seen yet.

So for now, let’s continue with the reno of the bath. This is a long post with lots of pictures, so hang in there.

1 tub liftI had already gotten the tub for the upstairs, well actually two tubs. The first one is in the crate, as it was damaged when I received it – the second one is just about ready to go on a little two-story journey. Speaking of story – there’s one behind this tub – I’ll post the story sometime.

2 tub through windowAnd up it goes…it weighs 450 pounds so this was the easiest way to get it to the second floor.

3 windows for 2nd floor Next comes the second floor windows, might as well since we rented the Loadall for this project.

4 master closet doorThe master closet with drywall installed – for about two days.

5 master closet windowAnd the window side of the closet. If you have followed along, you know this won’t stay like this for long. everything goes – including that little window.

6 bath windowThe large master bath window is prepped with Protecto wrap and with sill guard. This is way overkill. It’s now one big opening. A new header was added above. Previous owners seemed to have forgotten that structure is important.

7 bath window scaffoldingYou can see in the photo this was before I got the great idea to build a sunroom and patio. The slab for the mudroom is in place.

8 bath window installedThe new bath window in place.

9 closet demo startNow we hop back upstairs and start tearing that closet out – again.

10 closet demo doorYou can see all the drywall finishing I did – it was pretty good – but practice makes perfect they say…

11 closet demoIt’s all gotta go – why? Because I decided to make that new staircase that would be normal instead of a 45 degree rocket launcher. Should have thought about that earlier.

12 kitchen ceilingNow don’t be alarmed – this is the kitchen, not the bathroom. But the kitchen is right below the master bath. I spent a lot of time repairing the kitchen ceiling (we’ll have detailed posts later). But the bathroom floor joists were just too undersized to make a 450 pound cast iron tub with 40 gallons of water and a person or two feel happy. So we gotta do some structural modifications – and that means we have to say goodbye to the kitchen ceiling.


13 bedroom wall structureSpeaking of structure, upstairs we have to move the wall and the point load of that steel beam that helps hold up the roof. The wall is now directly over a wall below and transfers the load all the way to the basement footers. I feel better now.

14 lvl beamTo beef up the bathroom floor we’ll add some LVL lumber – these are laminated beams that are very strong and heavy – I put them in by myself.

15 lvl installationWe’ll put two right down the middle on either side of where the tub will be placed.

16 lvl glueThen every other floor joist will be sistered with an lvl or another dimensional wood joist. All will be glued and lag bolted together. This will make a nice strong floor system that will allow me to put a tile floor in properly.

17 level My wife gave me one of these fancy digital levels for Christmas. I had to stop using it, because if it wasn’t 0.0 on the level I’d spend hours getting that .01 degree to read zero. Anal retentive, I is.

18 string ceilingBut I did run ledger strings on the ceiling to get the surface as flat as possible for the new drywall.

Somebody help me….