We’ve got the window in, now it’s time to button it up – the right way.
Here’s where we left off.
My somewhat reluctant, but cute assistant holding the living room window while I set it in place. You can see the waterproof wrap and bottom metal straps over the sill guards. You can see on the label all the windows are energy star rated.
Once the windows are installed with the nailing fins, the windows are attached at the top and sides with flat shims. If you have to use adjustable shims (the tapered type) use them in pairs facing each other to keep the surface flat. Spray foam (for windows – regular crack filler will expand too much and bow the window frame) is added to all gaps to seal and insulate. The bottom of the window gets a bead of silicone calk to seal from air infiltration – but not fill in the sill pan – this allows any water to escape.
Two of the rooms (Francia’s and my offices) still have plaster lath walls. The walls are patched to repair any damage before the wood interior casings go on.
Tip: when repairing plaster walls only use ‘Hot Mud’ drywall compound – the kind you mix from powder – at least for the 1st coat. It’s similar to plaster of Paris and uses a chemical reaction to harden. It’s available in 15, 30, 45 and 90 minute compounds – the number indicates how fast the compound hardens. I always use 90 minute – it gives you a little more work time. Avoid the premixed drywall compound – it is an air dry material that is not near as strong as the Hot mud. If you want to use the premixed over the hot mud for the final coats – that’s fine. Hot mud is harder to sand, so the premixed compound for the final feather coats might be easier.
I always prime all of the casing wood before installing around the window. Since I will paint the trim, all of the wood is paint grade poplar. You’ll probably have to go somewhere besides a big box store for this. Call around and you will probably find that this material is not much different in price than the #2 white pine most big box stores offer. If you are staining, you’ll have to use something other than poplar.
Here there was some loose plaster that came off when the casing was installed. There is a cap going over the casing, so any plaster repair will be done before the final cap is installed.
All plaster repairs are completed before the cap goes on.
Not a great picture, but you can see the cap is installed and covers the repaired plaster.
This shows the trim a little better. This is the bathroom trim – the bottom piece is removable to add a marble sill. This bottom piece is used as a template to cut the stone. All of the other wood is placed before the stone goes in.
The marble sill was cut and installed – slide out the template, cut the same size and glue in place.
Why I like casements.
Here are the mudroom windows – Marvin ultimate replacement double hung windows. These were used on the mudroom because this is a traffic area outside. I didn’t want to run the risk of having a casement window open and walking into it after dark. Given my present situation (due to my ladder indecent) it’s probably a good move. The point is this – see that arrow? It shows that opening and the double hung tracks. It gives you a less clean look. Also it is not as deep in the jamb area due to the bypass design of the double hung windows.
The casement window gives you a deeper, smooth jamb (inside wood trim next to window.) This is also why I didn’t get the factory jamb extensions. It would have been impossible for me to trim the windows precisely with a factory jamb. It was much easier to make them myself and fit to the installed window.
A couple of obsessive design notes in this picture. Small details will make your space seem more harmonious. Visual rhythm is important to me. You’ll notice the closet door knobs were placed inline with the chair rail to keep that visual line unbroken. Also you can see I made the closet door cross pieces in the same plane as the window mullion for the same reason. Little things that I think make the space more finished.
So the pros and cons of casements.
Pros: I like the casement for ease of use. Just lift the side handle and fold out the crank. The single window screen is easy to remove and clean. The windows are the most energy efficient than any other type. Most of all I like the clean interior and more dept of the jamb.
Cons: Since my windows are wood with aluminum cladding on the outside you have to be mindful of rain. If you have the window cranked out and it gets wet – it can cause problems. Not a real big issue with double hung. Usually casements are more expensive than most types of windows. The only other con I can think of is you can hurt yourself if you have these in traffic areas.
But since I’m a superficial kinda guy – the looks had me at hello.
Have a great weekend!