I’m trying like the dickens to get to the good stuff – it’s just that I want to make sure I show the process – just in case one of you out there in cyber-land wants to try your hand at this stone masonry thing.
First, when I was in the hospital and wheel chair for the last half of last year my trusty concrete contractor Shawn Thomas Masonry – turned out to be not so trusty. Remind me to put a red circle over his picture at my post here. It turns out he’s OK with concrete and he’s a heck of a block layer – but the rest is pretty poor. So after I got back on my feet I gave him the boot.
Lot’s of problems to fix. Like cut electrical wires, buried rain screens and terrible flashing before the black stuff (rain screen went on) So, of course yours truly had to take it all off, tear into the wall to fix the electrical and flashing and drainage issues. Thanks ST.
The lower perimeter of the mud room is waterproofed with an asphalt membrane. The lower sections of plywood sheathing on the patio side was replaced with treated plywood for extra protection.
It was brought all the way around the mudroom base.
At all intersections of the stone wall and siding an aluminum flashing was placed in the corners as extra protection. House wrap was added over this. You see the front of the house with the black rain screen material to your left.
Speaking of really bad flashing. I think Shawn Thomas Masonry came up a little short on this one. The purpose of a head or cap flashing is to cover the gap at the top of the window or door to keep water from flowing behind the casing. Take some notes ST.
Probably just as well, so I could replace them with a soldered solid copper flashing.
And you need to use copper nails to fasten the flashing to the wall. Protecto wrap will go over this and the house wrap will go over that.
The wire lath is attached with a roofing gun. Yep. everything is now flashed correctly. You’ll see a casing bead along the sides of the window – we’ll see more of that in the next post.
On the concrete sections of the foundation a couple of courses of stone can go up. Part of this will be covered by dirt when the yard is properly graded. This is put on to keep the weeps up above ground level – you’ll see.
Here the rain screen is cut to match the stone contours. The material looks like corrugated cardboard split in two. It’s made of polypropylene and the fabric is used to keep the mortar out of the channels.
I found it much easier to put the weeps in this way. I used a little house wrap tape to hold them in position.
The wall is prepared with a flexible through the wall flashing that seals the top of the stone. This creates a barrier so water doesn’t get behind the stone and freeze causing bond failure. In this picture you can see the waterproofing, rain screen and weeps and the wire lath attached in the background.
The weeps are covered with the fabric to keep mortar from clogging the channels. Roofing nails fasten the expanded metal lath to the wood framing and blue tapcon screws are used to fasten the lath to the concrete below.
Here we are ready for the scratch coat. The layers from the inside out are as follows. House wrap – 15 pound asphalt felt – rain screen with fabric cover – expanded diamond lath.
Long post, but we’re getting somewhere.