Friday Snapshot

Door knob and plateNew nickel plated door plates and crystal knobs installed. These old doors work again.

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Mid July Roundup – Doors and Floors

It seems as I march towards making this place into a habitable dwelling – the photos just don’t seem that interesting. I know the good stuff is right around the corner, but it’s hard to grab a camera and take a picture of so many ho-hum projects. So here’s what happening now at the Misadventures project.

1 sunroom lightI left off with these sunroom lights installed because I needed the space in the garage. I was worried the scale might be too large, but they fit between the beams fine. You will see my problem in the background. The wall sconces were placed to correspond to the windows. Unfortunately, this left an awkward gap between the lights. You can see I’m fiddling with a cardboard design to balance out the space. We’ll see how this turns out.

2 window casingThis is a view from the kitchen into the sunroom. I’m casing the last window and one of the final door openings.

3 plywood underlaymentLooking back into the kitchen area you can see I’m adding a 1/2″ BC plywood underlayment, glued and screwed to the 3/4″ T&G pine floor. There is a 14′ island that runs down the middle of this space.

4 plaster wall damageI kept two rooms with original plaster lathe walls and ceilings. This is what was behind the baseboard. We’ll repair this before we replace the trim.

5 bondo fillerAll the doors get new hinges, mortise locks, plates and knobs. So of course the new door strikes don’t fit the originals. First I use auto bondo to fill in the areas that would show with the new striker plate. The pencil marks show the new location.

6 door mortise jigAs usual, I made a jig that will make a fast and accurate cut to recess the plate. The jig has a piece that fits against the door stop. It is then screwed to the jamb so it won’t move.

7 router and jigThe router uses the jig frame to make an accurate cut for the recess.

8 door strike fittingThe test fit shows I didn’t get enough filler to cover the old hole. We’ll add a little more later.

9 marking mortiseThe jamb is marked for the latch hole that needs to be mortised.

10 drilling mortiseMake a couple holes with a forstner bit. This type of drill bit makes a flat bottomed hole. Then just use a wood chisel to square up the hole.

11 screw hole fixI usually fill the old screw holes anytime I replace a plate or hinge. Take a small diameter forstner bit and dill into the screw hole. Take a matching diameter wood dowel and glue it in place.

12 cutting dowelAfter the glue is dry, saw off flush. This not only gives you a clean start, but reinforces the wood around the original hole.

13 jamb sawTo get the 1/2″ plywood under the trim, I rented a jamb saw to make the cuts. 20.00 for 4 hours rental. Had all the doors cut and the tool back to Home Depot in an hour. This project would have taken all day with a regular saw.

14 close callBut I dodged another bullet – while I was handling the still spinning saw I nearly snagged my leg. It ripped my jeans but didn’t get any skin. Lucky this time.

Hope everyone is having a great and productive summer.  Till next time.

 

Door Trim and Other Time Consuming Tasks

Well, fellow renovators my monthly update is in order. Still focused on the basement woman cave – and lots have been going on. I still haven’t gotten to the really pretty stuff, but we have to pay our dues in wading through the tedious stuff. So this episode focuses on that pesky door trim that you have to address if you have any type of hole in your wall.

1 cabinet insertsFirst we make a couple of plywood cabinet inserts. These are 3/4″ UV coated cabinet stock. They will go in the bathroom – the one on the left will get a door mirror. The one on the right is open towel storage. They’ll need trim, right?

2 inserts in placeAnd this is where they go in the bathroom. Uh, oh – looks like some complicated trim gymnastics coming up.

3 pvc trimFirst we figure out the pieces for the Tall cabinet and cut to size. This is PVC trim – all of the trim in the bathroom is made from this material.

4 marking trimThen we flip it over and mark where the screws will be drilled and a mark for the inside corner.

5 Kreg tool drillThen we drill the pocket screws using my cheap Kreg drill guide. This system is great to make quick work of cabinet projects like these face frames.

6 glueing trimEach joint is coated with PVC primer and then general purpose PVC cement. Keep the cement a little ways away from the front face of the joint to keep the front looking pretty.

7 fastening trimI then use a clamp to hold the pieces against the table surface while I set the screws. I use the clamp to keep the two pieces from shifting under pressure. This assures a nice flat face.

8 sanding flushIf you have kept the glue off the face, you can sand the joint flush immediately. If you have solvent on the front, you’ll have to wait a day or two to sand, as the glue softens the PVC and it will be impossible to get a flush joint.

9 trim pieces finishedOnce the two trim assemblies are finished, it’s time to make it a little more difficult.

10 trim pieces assembledThe trim to the right is for the door and the left is the trim around the cabinet insert. I’ve joined the two together to get super smooth joints. You’ll see how this all fits together in a later post. The two pressure clamps and a strip of PVC are used to stabilize this awkward piece without breaking the joints when moving to install.

Quick way to measure trim

Since I’ve done every door, window and cabinet in this place with all new trim that I fabricated,  I’ve had plenty of practice. Here is the simplest way I’ve found to measure and cut door trim.

11 trim spacerFirst make a spacer for the reveal of the trim. This is the space between the interior jamb of the door or window and the start of the casing (the flat part that goes around the opening.) I take one side of casing and space it with my template. Then clamp the piece in place.

12 trim clampedRepeat the process on the other side. Make the casing sides the same length and let the bottom edge rest on the floor.

13 marking header trimPlace a piece of casing along the top edge and mark the outside edge. I also put reference marks to keep pieces in order.

14 trim surround finishedI drill pocket screws and assemble just like I showed you earlier.  Keep the outer edge of the side casings flush to the top casing to make sure the reveal is correct. This makes a strong, flat joint and it will fit perfectly around your door.

Pretty stuff coming up in the next post. Promise.

Mortises, problems and other stuff

I’ve got lots going on here at Misadventures. Finishing up soffits and Azek trim on the stone work. Rough plumbing is in the woman cave. New roof goes on next week.

Today I’ll do a quick post about original doors and mortises.

I’m using the original doors in their original locations when possible. Really, there’s only five doors on the first floor that stay where they were 80 years ago, but the original mortise latches and locks were broken and others didn’t work very well. So, to make it more complicated I got new latches and hinges for the doors.

1 new mortise locksThe problem is the new latches won’t fit the original openings. Great! Time to make a jig!

2 mortise jigSo using the handy router bit to base plate edge  blocks,  I made a jig to route the new openings in the doors. Since I have five of these to do it was quicker to make a jig.

3 mortise routerThe jig is aligned to the opening and clamped to the door. The router base follows the frame to cut the new opening.

4 mortise fitAnd the new latch fits into the new recessed opening.

5 strike plate jigOf course, the strike plates didn’t fit either, so another jig is made for the door jamb. The router follows the inside frame and you have just what you need.

1 door finishedThe reconditioned door with new latch, door plates, knobs and hinges – one down, four to go.

2 stone trimWhen it’s not raining I’ll jump outside to finish the Azek frieze trim and soffits. This was the last of the hidden vent soffits around the whole house. No more birds nesting in there!

3 copper lightAnd while I was at it, I added this nifty solid copper light over the back door. This should get a nice patina over time.

6 sill pan leakOne problem that had me stumped was this little leak at the sunroom door. There’s no gutters on the house yet, but no leaks should be happening here.It has a sill pan underneath.

7 sill panAs you can see from this photo in 2012, the sill is protected with a pan and flashing underneath. After taking the brick-mold off outside and my newly installed trim off the inside, I was ready to remove the door and see what could be the problem.

8 sill pan fixBut before I dropped the door, I thought I would see if it was possible that the pan was leaking. These sill pans are made from three pieces that are cemented together, so I took a syringe and filled the pan with water. It leaked. So I ordered a can of Weldon 2007 – a water thin pvc solvent. I used the syringe to add cement at the seam inside the pan and then applied upward pressure with the putty knife between the floor and pan. It took care of the leak.

Wish I would have thought of this before I took off all the trim. Live and learn.