Adding an Egress Window in an Old House #3

Now that we’ve gotten the dirty stuff out of the way and my Poison Ivy rash is under control (That Mean Green Hand Scrub really works!)

3 foam around buckThe two sub sills and the window buck are installed and plumbed and leveled. The bottom and top are screwed in with 4″ deck screws. The sides were foamed with large crack spray foam to fill the voids.

4 cut foamAfter the foam is cured it is cut flush to the wall with a hand saw.

5 water proofingAn asphalt based foundation waterproofing material was troweled over the cleaned foundation. The white areas of block are visible because I had to grind down the surface to make the wall uniform and flat. The original mason wasn’t very good with a level apparently.

2 drain componentsI decided to add a sump box for the well drain. This is typically used in landscape projects – debris will settle in the bottom of the sump and keep from clogging the drain system. I used a 9″ square sump and my first thought was to use all PVC pipe to fit the drain.

6 drain discardBut after a little more thought I ditched that idea – but only after I glued several parts together. That was a waste of time and money – ouch!

7 drain and water proofingInstead I went with a solid flexible drain so that in the winter time I would have less issues if ground freezing was a problem. I also added a fiberglass membrane over the waterproofing on the foundation and the window buck for a little extra protection.

8 drainThe drain was placed in the ground in the approximate location.

9 AZEK frameThe AZEK PVC frame was then installed flush to the buck with PL adhesive and cortex screws.

10 window installThe window was then finally installed inside the PVC frame using elastomeric caulk and small head screws for treated lumber.

11 foam insideThe inside showing the spray foam around the window buck and the window sitting within the AZEK frame.

12 frame detailAn exterior frame was fabricated from 1X12″ AZEK and assembled with PVC glue and Kreg screws. The back side has a wide rabbet to make it flush with the window and accommodate the window’s nailing fin thickness.

13 frame backHere’s the back side of the frame ready to be installed. The screw holes were filled with caulk (over kill) The sides measure 11 1/4″ top 3 1/2″ bottom 8″.

14 frame installedThe frame is attached to the pressure treated window buck using Cortex Screws. This frame fits up underneath the water table trim and the bottom extends down below the drain surface. The wide sides cover the foundation allowing the side panels for the window well to attach through the frame into the foundation.

Confusing? It will be clearer in the next post.





7 thoughts on “Adding an Egress Window in an Old House #3

    • Trev and I probably think alike…if you’re already doing the job a little extra takes little money and time – so why not do it the best you can? Makes sleeping and night easier.

      • Curt, you are right; but that doesn’t stop folk who keep asking “have you finished yet?” and roll their eyes when you say “no!”
        We only plan to do this house once, so we will do it properly

  1. Curt, we don’t need one of these, but we sure could use your help. Guess reading up on your blog will have to do. Love your attention to detail and how thoroughly you explain everything. 🙂

    • Thanks, Lynda! I try to show stuff that I couldn’t find online. It’s all pretty basic, but it’s much clearer as to what to do when your doing it.

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