I’m Back! well, sort of…

OK – I’ve had enough of this medically induced vacation from the Misadventures in Remodeling blog. Did you think I would give up? Oh, no I’m too foolish to do a sensible thing like that – nope I’m gonna get this place finished if it kills me. Let me rephrase that (as it almost did kill me) – I will do the best I can as long as the renovation Gods will allow. Five surgeries later I walk like an impaired penguin – and going up a ladder is one half step at a time – I still have one good leg, so why not? It’s been seven months since I have been able to walk into this place – it’s like a time capsule left just the way it was in June of last year.

So let’s get busy!

Let’s start on the ground first, shall we?Mud RoomHere’s the mud room – the washer was pulled out in the middle of the room while I fiddled with getting hoses and other parts for the Floodstop system to prevent water leaks from a failed washing machine hose. Since the shut off valves for the washer and steam dryer are not accessible, I have an additional set of shut off valves in the basement – which is good – but then it’s kind of a pain to go downstairs and shut them off after every use, so I decided to add a Floodstop system.

FloodstopThe system consists of two servo motor valves that close in the event of a water leak.

Servo Valves FloodstopThe motorized valves are connected to the hot & cold supplies. Originally the steam dryer water supply was plumbed under the sink, but that wouldn’t allow leak protection. I had to put a ‘y’ on the cold supply to split the water supply to the dryer.

Floor sensorFloor sensors are placed on the floor under the machines and if they detect water they automatically shut the supply valves.

Floodstop ControlThe control is mounted where you can reset or manually control the valves. Here it’s mounted under my mudroom sink cabinet.

Floodstop sensor wireSince there is a water supply to the steam dryer, I ran a sensor under the dryer too. The cabinet floor will conceal the wires. I thought this would be a pretty safe project, being on the floor – but I ended up hurting my leg and back to the doctor I went.

But a couple of days later it’s ladder time! All with the blessings of my doctors who said “If you can do it – then do it”. OK.

Roll insulationNow back to the sunroom. Ceiling insulation time. I had placed ventilation chutes and one layer of unfaced R19 fiberglass in the rafter bays. I couldn’t  find a thicker r-value insulation in my area so I decided to add another r-13 fiberglass layer – the problem is no one stocks unfaced 23.5″ wide R-13 – so I had to get the faced type.

Removing paper from insullation

Now you have to be very careful not to create a ‘moisture sandwich” (two vapor barriers) within the same space. I had to peel the paper (the vapor barrier) off this second layer because of the foam insulation that will be going over this. Also, I needed to make this layer a little thinner because my rafters are 2X10 and the effective thickness of insulation should be around 8″ thick.

Insullation going upHere you can see the second layer of insulation going in. The straps are used to hold it in place.

Foam board insullationThis is foil-faced 3/4″ foamboard going over the unfaced fiberglass. The foil face goes towards the exterior to act as a radiant barrier. The foamboard acts as the vapor barrier, that’s why the fiberglass paper had to be removed.

That’s it for now – not exciting, nor pretty stuff – but we’ll get there.

Renovation Gods willing.

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14 thoughts on “I’m Back! well, sort of…

  1. Mud room looks awesome! I really like everything about the space: windows, cabinets, ironing board and placement of washer, sink, dryer.

    I haven’t read too many of your previous posts (get so darn busy), but question / comment:

    1) why do you have a garbage disposal in your mudroom?
    2) I notice the dryer vent is coming off the side of the dryer, any issues with that? Did you have to convert the dryer yourself? I ask because we almost did that with our new dryer last year (I still have the kit that I never used).

    • Hi Chris – I follow you over on http://nineappletrees.com/ – you are way more detailed than I am. You show ’em how to do it. Great blog. To answer your questions. The garbage disposal is for my wife. She drags in a lot of root vegetables and other stuff from the garden, so I thought I would have a place she could clean them up a little before they get to the wood floored kitchen. That’s the concept anyway – we’ll see how that works out.
      The dryer vent – yes…the dryer vent. I kinda acted before I thought. Sure it gives you a couple more inches to allow the dryer closer to the wall, but I had to make some convoluted cabinet to allow me to take the dryer out when needed. The cabinet face frame is removable along with a side panel so that the dryer outlet will clear the cabinet. A lot of work for a couple of inches.
      Oh, the dryer conversion? Yep, I took it all apart and did the conversion – not very difficult if you can stomach taking apart a brand new dryer – it works. Would I do it again with my cabinet layout? Nope.

      • Ok, I got it. I wish we had designed something for bringing veggies in and washing them off. Not a bad idea. As for the vent, we chickened out. I bought the kit and said “You know what, the dryer measures out to be as far back as my drawing shows, so let’s leave it.”

        Thanks for reading my blog by the way. I hope you’re getting back into working order and getting up that ladder gets easier.

  2. So you did get that new knee? Wow, I know those take a long time to come back from but I’m so glad all is now well and you will soon be back to normal! The mudroom looks amazing and I’m really digging the layout with the washer dryer and sink in the middle. I’m going to have to study how you did this! I would like a sink in our laundry area but am thinking of some kind of dog wash or water fountain to ‘contain’ their drinking. Love it, welcome back!

    • Thanks so much for stopping in. Yep, new knee on one side and new heel on the other. That’s why I walk like a penguin. My wife is short, so a straight counter over the washer and dryer would put the sink to high. I thought about placing a cabinet step below the sink, but thought this would be better – but of course more complicated. I’ve seen commercial mop sinks that were converted to dog washes – I suppose it depends on how big the dog is.

    • Hi D’Arcy – thanks for the welcome. I hope to get the doors made for the cabinets this year – its about time!

  3. Welcome back! I’ve missed your posts. I’m going to take another look at my plans and see if I can also fit a sink in between the washing machine and the tumble dryer.

    • Thanks so much! If you are short like my wife – you’ll appreciate the sink at counter level. It is a pain and I would never side vent the dryer again.If the washer and dryer didn’t sit next to an outside wall I would use one of those nifty recessed dryer boxes to keep the dryer closer to the wall – or just make the counter a few inches deeper. I have enjoyed your blog – the landscape (both geographical and societal ) of South Africa is so different from my Midwestern life.

  4. I used to have a automatic shut off valves in our upstairs (second floor) laundry room. You’re reminding me I better get back on that. BTW, welcome back. I agree with Lynda, love the detailed posts. Jo @ Let’s Face the Music

    • Hi Jo! Missed this note, so wanted to reply. Your place is really shaping up – it won’t be long before you can fill that place with music.

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