Well, we sure get distracted, don’t we? Trying to get this closet wrangled into shape is quite the experience. So, we have the exterior wall, door and window sorted out. We have the exterior sheathing on and wrapped the chimney in a new copper flashing. Sometimes you gotta do a lot to have a place to hang some clothes.
Here we are looking at the front eave area to the left of the closet. Originally this area was a ‘cold zone’ with side wall vents to allow the roof area to be vented. I decided to maximize all of the space in this house, so these will be conditioned spaces. You see unfaced fiberglass batts on the exterior wall behind the chimney and on the floor. The new framing will have additional insulation and the styrene vent chutes have been stapled to the bottom of the roof deck. This will allow for vented air from the eaves to the ridge vent.
The ceiling insulation is in and nylon straps are stapled to the roof rafters to keep everything in place. This is unfaced insulation because foil faced insulation board is going over this. You want to be careful not to create a ‘moisture sandwich’ that would trap water and cause all kinds of problems. To the right you can see that the area behind the knee wall has blown in insulation, so everything is fully insulated.
Now let’s take a look at the closet.
Honestly, I just wasn’t feelin’ it. This closet needed something more, design-wise – especially since I added the new 3′ window. You can see that I had already redone the ceiling and put some nifty low voltage halogen cans in there. Ductwork was run and we were ready to go. But it looks like it’s time for some freestylin’ design revisions. I started by moving the walls out at the bottom – you can see the little paint line on the floor to the right. The walls came down from the end of the drywall ceiling to the floor – a total of 3′ of wasted space, if you ask me. So I added decking and framed it out.
I couldn’t take it anymore.
The clipped off ceiling just didn’t look right. So out with the demo hammer and a few seconds later – you have to do something new, because there’s no turning back. I took down the old drywall and poorly installed insulation. And of course my lights and electrical stuff I had put in previously.
In defense of previous owners, they really couldn’t do what I’m about to do. The clipped ceiling was needed because collar ties were used to tie the roof rafters together. Now, with the reconfiguring of the building and new sunroom, these rafters are supported by new outside walls.The big problem was that the rafters were all over the place. If you placed a straight edge across the rafters they were out by several inches. To remedy that I made a story pole 9′ long to reference the height of the ceiling. The strip of plywood at the top is used to align the sistered rafters – you’ll see.
The strip is set level at 9′ to the floor. The triangles are plywood collar ties to secure the roof rafters together. You can see how far out the original roof rafter is with the sistered new piece in place.
Vent chutes are put in place and each rafter gets a ‘sister’ to even the wall surface.
After the new unfaced insulation is installed, 3/4″ foil faced foam insulation is nailed to the new rafter sisters. 5/8 Fire code X drywall is installed. See the little plywood protrusions from the wall? Those are the supports for a closet rod that will line both sides of the closet. I’ve removed my double sconce wiring and fixtures from the end wall and will install a single over the window sconce.
The end wall was also insulated with unfaced fiberglass and topped with 3/4″ foil faced insulation. The ceiling surfaces are now dead flat – which is a good thing because I’ll be installing a beadboard ceiling in here and any wave will show.
I feel so much better now. I’ve always wanted a pointy top closet.
A dream come true.