So we have really quite a puzzle on our hands – how to make this stair with a longer run and the only possible way to do that is on the second floor – drat.
So since the new stair is going to be 30″ deeper up here – by my calculation I’ll have a roomy 15 inches at the top of the stair. Crap. I have to have much more.
We’ll deal with the odd angles and headroom issues somehow. But for now let’s just live for the moment – and not overlook the structural steel beams hanging up there.
To make the staircase work we’ll have to move the wall back on the bedroom side around 4 feet. We’ll have to pick up a point load for that structural steel beam so it sets on a floor joist over a perpendicular load bearing wall. Which is right where the post has been placed. Enough of this building stuff.
On to investigating the staircase structure.
This is the office side of the staircase. As you might have noticed, I’ve given up on making that wall work – the bookcase was built, installed and then promptly removed, along with the rest of the plaster lath. Oh, and that closet? I spent a lot of time making it smooth and painted just so. I added some additional height and a hanging system.
This is a closeup of the stair stringer throat measurement. The minimum for this should not be less than 3 1/2″. It’s pretty close. What isn’t so hot is the saw overcut. These are areas for potential splitting and stair stringer failure.
Uh-oh this is where things start getting a little scary. This is not how you hold up a stair case. Let’s count all the nails together, shall we? 1-2-3 … if we’re lucky we have 6 nails that have some holding power in these stringers. Would you like to prance up and down on your staircase with 6 nails holding you up? I didn’t think so. Yes, it’s only 6. And they had the opportunity to fasten it to the stair well side walls – but they didn’t.
Let’s see this from another angle.
Hang in there gang — we’ll make something out of this yet.