That is unless you are one similar to me, who just has to be DIY.
I want to apologize for the long delay in posting. I do have a job outside this renovation, and sometimes my wife makes me work at the business. Darn the bad luck. Also, most of what’s been going on at the “Hobby House” has been, well – pretty boring stuff. Unless you think all new plumbing (again) – redoing the upstairs closet (third time) and all new HVAC systems (two) are stimulating. But I’ll post about them as well in the future. At this rate you’ll be reading about it in a couple of years.
So back to window installation details.
After installing 15 or so of these windows I figured out a jig system that would make the installation more accurate. New construction windows usually have a nail fin on the exterior that allows the window to ‘flex’ a little in the window opening. This jig will keep you from constantly checking the plumb of the window frame with a level. If your window framing is plumb, your window will be too. This makes the jamb extensions much easier to fabricate.
Once you have the window in place you can shim and screw in place. Talking to the Marvin window rep in our city, he said many new installs are just attached by the nailing fins. This will make the window fail in short order. Follow the window installation instructions and you’ll be just fine and dandy.
Whenever possible use a small solid shim like the one pictured. The screw goes through the window frame and into the wall. This small size allows for more foam insulation and keeps thermal bridging to a minimum.
I told you this would be a boring post – so you were warned.
Here is the foam after the shims are in place. The picture looks like only one shim is located at each screw location, but in fact there are two facing opposite directions. This is to keep the surface that the window is attached to flat. One shim only will give you a slanted surface – flat is better if possible. Another problem with this photo – no protective tape. These windows were ordered pre-painted. The others I put in were just primed. I should have run a strip of painters tape along the outer window edge before I foamed them.
Here you see the metal straps attached to the bottoms of the windows. The straps are then attached to the wall sill at the innermost edge. This keeps any holes in the sill guard window pan inside and away from any possible water intrusion. This was a 2X6 wall – if this was 2X4 you could bend the straps down and attach inside.
Here is the rough opening for the patio door. I won’t go into more boring detail here – but let’s just say the door was framed with the top opening the correct dimension and the bottom 1 1/2″ too narrow. Gotta love that framing crew. So with a saws-all and a little time I straightened everything up to the right size.
Whenever possible, use a sill pan or other protection to keep water away from any wall penetration. Here you see a PVC sill pan over protecto-wrap. The concrete blocks will be capped with limestone treads.
Couple things to note here. I went with a single 36″ wide door with sidelights instead of a french patio door. When I’ve had double doors before I rarely needed the second door. This combination made more sense to me in cost (a little more than 15% less) and is more energy efficient. Also note the scaffolding I built from the top step – this little door weighed in at over 400 pounds. Even with the door out the frame and side lights was over 200 pounds. The scaffold was a good idea and only took a few minutes to fabricate.
So there you have the latest installment of this ongoing adventure. Exciting? Not really – but stay tuned – something exciting might turn up sooner or later.